Shimmering Narratives: The Enduring Artistry of Haida Button Blankets
On the mist-shrouded shores of Haida Gwaii, where the ancient rainforest meets the tumultuous Pacific, a profound art form shimmers and dances, embodying centuries of history, identity, and resilience. The Haida button blanket, a ceremonial regalia of unparalleled beauty, is more than just a garment; it is a living narrative, a wearable crest, and a testament to the enduring spirit of the Haida Nation. Adorned with thousands of iridescent abalone shells and vibrant felt appliqué, these blankets are a dazzling display of cultural continuity, their designs speaking a language as old as the islands themselves.
Stepping into a longhouse during a potlatch, one is immediately struck by the sight of these blankets. As dancers move, the light catches the mother-of-pearl buttons, creating a mesmerizing play of light, an effect that has earned them the moniker "shimmering narratives." Each blanket tells a story, often that of the wearer’s clan and lineage, depicting ancestral crests – the majestic Eagle, the cunning Raven, the powerful Bear, or the enigmatic Killer Whale – rendered in the distinctive, flowing lines of Haida art.
A Tapestry of Time and Trade
The origins of the button blanket are rooted in a fascinating confluence of traditional Indigenous artistry and post-contact trade. While Indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast have a long history of creating ceremonial robes from materials like cedar bark and mountain goat wool, the button blanket, as we know it, emerged in the mid-19th century. European traders introduced readily available materials such as broadcloth, felt, and most significantly, mother-of-pearl and abalone buttons.
"These blankets represent a pivotal moment in our history," explains Jisgang, Nika Collison, Executive Director of the Haida Gwaii Museum. "Our ancestors were incredibly adaptable. They took these new materials and integrated them seamlessly into their existing artistic and cultural frameworks, creating something entirely new yet deeply traditional." The dark, durable wool or felt, often navy blue or black, provided a dramatic backdrop for the bold, stylized designs cut from contrasting red felt. But it was the buttons, meticulously hand-sewn, that truly elevated these garments to a new level of opulence and spiritual significance.
Initially, the buttons were imported from distant lands, making them a precious commodity. Their acquisition represented wealth and status, and their application to a blanket transformed it into a powerful symbol of the wearer’s standing within the community. The more buttons, the greater the prestige. This economic value intertwined with their spiritual resonance, as the abalone’s inner glow was often associated with light, the spirit world, and the shimmering surface of the ocean, a vital source of life and sustenance for the Haida.
The Language of Formline: Art Beyond Adornment
At the heart of every Haida button blanket lies the intricate visual language of Formline art. This unique style, common across the Pacific Northwest Coast, is characterized by its curvilinear forms, precisely defined ovoids, U-forms, and S-forms. It is a highly sophisticated system of design principles, where every line carries meaning and contributes to the overall composition.
"Formline isn’t just about drawing animals; it’s about embodying their spirit and character within a dynamic, interlocking system," says renowned Haida artist Robert Davidson, himself a master of Formline. "It’s a language of transformation, where elements morph and flow into one another, creating a sense of movement and life."
The central image on a button blanket is typically a crest figure, rendered in a highly stylized and often symmetrical manner. These crests are not merely decorative; they are direct representations of the wearer’s clan lineage, inherited through generations. For the Haida, who are matrilineal, these crests are passed down from the mother’s side, connecting individuals directly to their ancestral lands, histories, and spiritual guardians.
The primary crest figure is often depicted with anatomical accuracy within the Formline tradition, but also with abstract elements that allow for a fluid integration of the entire design. Secondary figures or "fillers" might occupy spaces around the main crest, often representing related spirits or elements of the crest’s story. The negative spaces within the design are as important as the positive, contributing to the balance and harmony of the overall composition.
The Spiritual Glow of Abalone
The most striking feature of the button blanket, and the source of its "shimmering narrative," is the meticulous application of thousands of iridescent buttons. While glass and plastic buttons were sometimes used, it is the mother-of-pearl and especially the abalone shell that are most prized. Abalone, a mollusk found in coastal waters, boasts an inner shell that gleams with a spectrum of blues, greens, purples, and pinks, reminiscent of the northern lights or the ocean’s depths.
Each button is carefully selected, often cut into various shapes – circles, squares, rectangles, or even crescent moons – and then sewn onto the felt appliqué outlining the Formline design. This creates a raised, tactile surface that catches and reflects light with every movement, giving the blanket a dynamic, almost living quality.
The spiritual significance of abalone goes beyond its aesthetic appeal. For many Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest, shells, particularly those with an inner luminescence, were believed to hold spiritual power, connecting the wearer to the spirit world, the ocean, and the ancestors. The act of sewing each button, a painstaking and time-consuming process, was itself a meditative and reverent act, imbuing the blanket with intention and spiritual energy.
A Symbol of Resilience: Surviving Suppression
The story of the Haida button blanket is also a testament to cultural resilience. From 1884 to 1951, the Canadian government enacted the infamous Potlatch Ban, prohibiting Indigenous ceremonial practices, including the use of regalia like button blankets. The goal was assimilation, to eradicate Indigenous cultures. Many blankets were confiscated, sold to museums, or hidden away to protect them from destruction.
Despite this oppressive period, the knowledge and the art of making button blankets persisted, often in secret. Elders continued to pass down the designs and techniques, albeit quietly. When the ban was finally lifted, there was a powerful resurgence of cultural pride and practice.
"The ban tried to break us, but it only made our traditions stronger," states Gwaai Edenshaw, a Haida artist and carver. "The button blanket became a symbol of our survival, our refusal to let go of who we are. When we bring them out now, it’s not just about ceremony; it’s about reclaiming our identity."
Contemporary Keepers of the Flame
Today, the art of Haida button blanket making is experiencing a vibrant renaissance. A new generation of artists, building upon the foundations laid by their ancestors and mentors, are ensuring the continuity of this magnificent tradition. While respecting the traditional Formline principles and the significance of crests, contemporary artists also bring their unique interpretations and innovations to the form.
Artists like Isabel Rorick, who meticulously researches historical designs and techniques, and younger practitioners like Meghann O’Brien, who blends traditional weaving with contemporary aesthetics, are ensuring the vitality of this art form. The process remains labor-intensive, often taking hundreds of hours to complete a single blanket. Each piece is a collaborative effort, often involving family members in the cutting, sewing, and button application, strengthening familial and community bonds.
These blankets are not merely static museum pieces. They are living, breathing elements of Haida culture, worn with immense pride at potlatches, ceremonies, graduations, and significant community events. They connect the wearer to their ancestors, their clan, and the very land of Haida Gwaii.
A Legacy Shines On
The Haida button blanket stands as a powerful emblem of Indigenous sovereignty, artistic genius, and cultural endurance. From its origins as a fusion of traditional art and new materials, through periods of suppression, to its vibrant resurgence today, it continues to tell stories that transcend time.
In every shimmering button, in every flowing line of Formline, and in every meticulously placed appliqué, the button blanket whispers the enduring narratives of the Haida people – stories of creation, lineage, resilience, and an unwavering connection to their ancestral home. As these magnificent creations move and catch the light, they remind us that true art is not just seen; it is felt, understood, and carries the very spirit of a nation.
